the wooden spoon – a travel/photo blog

The plan this year was to host the kids from Seattle and continue on afterwards to as many markets as we could fit in. We had a great Thanksgiving with Jake, Jamie, Max and Owen, our neighbors the Martinez‘, and Andy, Dalice, Elly and E.J.

During the week we hustled the crew to Heildelberg, Luxembourg, Landsthul and on Friday we set off to Strasbourg for the opening day of Christmas markets.

The origins of Christmas markets in Europe can be traced back to the Late Middle Ages, evolving over centuries into the festive and vibrant markets that are now an integral part of the holiday season througout Europe. These markets have deep historical roots, blending elements of commerce, tradition, and celebration. The story of Christmas markets is a fascinating journey through time, encompassing various cultural, economic, and social factors that have shaped these beloved seasonal gatherings.These markets have deep historical roots, blending elements of commerce, tradition, and celebration.

Strasbourg has one of the biggest markets in Europe, spreading out over eleven venues, chock full of crafts, hot toddies and all kinds of food. It is also one of the oldest, with the first market dating back to 1570. The main market is in Cathedral Square, amidst small streets of cobblestones, kitschy little boutiques, the smells of bratwurst, open fire, chestnuts and glüwein filling the air. Happy faces were the order of the day.

Perhaps not as well known as some of its European counterparts for shopping, Strasbourg quietly holds its own as a destination city for boutique shopping. The windows and facades of the stores hint at the quality you will probably find inside.

The earliest known Christmas markets emerged in German-speaking regions during the Late Middle Ages. The first recorded market dates back to Vienna in 1294, where Duke Albrecht I granted the Viennese citizens the privilege of holding a December market. These markets initially served practical purposes, providing locals with the opportunity to stock up on provisions for the winter months. Strasbourg dates back to 1570 making it one of the oldest continuous markets in the world.

The boys headed back to Seattle the next day…troopers they were as they hit five countries in six days, got exposed to three languages and I believe they shopped till they dropped. Fun. Jamie stayed on for a whirlwind week of markets, food and driving.

We headed over to Speyer for our first market only to find that it was opening the following day. We made do with a nice lunch and a quick tour of the cathedral. Founded by Conrad II in 1030 and consecrated by his grandson Henry IV in 1061, this building has withstood the ravages of centuries and remains today as the oldest and largest romanesque church in the world. Inside are buried eight Emperors and three Empresses of the Holy Roman Empire. In 1981 it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

History not withstanding we headed out the following day to Bavaria and a tour of three markets there. Again, we were thwarted by two of the markets not being open yet but the third was a home-run. Gotta get a new trip planner for next year..

Christmas markets today have evolved into multi-dimensional experiences, offering a blend of tradition, entertainment, and commerce. The stalls feature a wide array of goods, including handmade crafts, ornaments, seasonal decorations, and a variety of festive foods and drinks. Mulled wine, gingerbread cookies, roasted chestnuts, and other seasonal treats have become synonymous with the Christmas market experience also characterized by twinkling lights, the scent of evergreen, and the sounds of holiday music. Market-goers can browse stalls for unique gifts, enjoy live performances, and partake in various activities. And if you get snow, it only enhances the magic of it all.

Bamberg checked all the boxes. It is a perfect example of a quintessential medieval Bavarian town. Located in Upper Franconia and built on seven hills, it is often compared to Rome with its mixture of religious and administrative buildings that date back to the 15th century. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site .

Started in 1002 by Henry II and his wife and consecrated a short ten years later, the late romanesque building holds not only the bodies of Henry II and wife Kuningunde, but also houses the tomb of Pope Clement II. Clement began his ascent to the papacy as a Bishop in Bamberg and after his death his remains were returned to Bamberg. He is the only Pope to be buried outside of Rome or France.

The Gothic style building was built in 1462 on a manmade island by the citizens of Bamberg. After their request of the local bishop for land for a new Town Hall was refused, they went ahead and created the island and the building…it has withstood the travails of time.

We spent one day in Nuremberg, albeit a rather brief one as that market also was scheduled to open the following day. But we did get a sense of what it would be like and a children’s market was open. Continuing our little travels we next went to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, again a closed market due to open the following day but a cute one none the less.

It is said that once you walk through one of the six gates in the wall that encircles the city you have entered into a fairy town. The streets are cobblestoned and lined with half-timbered houses painted in stunning pastels. Much of the building in the town is from the inception of the city in the 14th century – from the center of the square to the west is the Town Hall (Rathaus), on the north by the City Councillors’ Tavern (Ratstrinkstube) with its Tourist Information centre, on the east by shops and cafes, and on the south by St. George’s Fountain. The Town Hall Tower measures some 241 steps and from the top is an incredible view of the Tarber valley. I take this on good faith as I did not make the climb.

The shops are small, cute and focused and decorated for Christmas. We were also in Rothenburg two summers ago and the town was very busy and this time was no different with parking lots jammed with tourists buses. But in reality, there were moments when you could take a photograph without half the world’s population getting into the act.

I might have edited out the crowd surrounding Käthe Wohlfahrt’s flagship store, or maybe I just got lucky. Käthe Wohlfahrt has cornered the christmas market in Germany with freestanding stores in 8 German cities, two in Spain and Belgium respectively, a storefront in London as well as one in France and Stillwater, Minnesota. Additionally Käthe Wohlfahrt has a presence at about every German Christmas market of any size. The main store in Rothenburg has over three miles of garland spreads over 10,000 square feet. It is a bit overwhelming but the stores are always packed with tourists browsing over the 30,000 plus authentic German Christmas decorations.

Against the backdrop of this drop-dead cathedral,”Kölner Weihnachtsmarkt”, the Cologne Christmas market, stands as one of Europe’s most enchanting and traditional holiday experiences. Strasbourg is way high up on our list of markets, but the market in Köln is huge, bright, full of fun and captivating, starting with the cathedral which boasts of many “bests, biggest, awesomeness”.

The Cathedral was started on August 15th, 1248, during the Catholic holiday, the Feast of the Assumption of Mary. It would take 632 years to finish the building, so recognizable with its twin spires and dark hued coloring. Heavily damaged during WW II (nobody could bring themselves to inflict total destruction) and repaired completely in 1956, it today stands as the tallest building in Cologne besides the communication tower. Officially called the Cathedral of St Peter and Mary, it can hold over 20,000 worshippers at once. There were not that many there the Sunday we were there. The entire mass was in latin adding a sense of history to the solemnity of the ritual. The grandeur of this gothic architecture inside and out solidifies the belief that the Dom Köln is among the top five Cathedrals in the world.

The market ostensibly opened at noon, but there was no way that this crowd had just gotten in.

In conclusion, the origin of Christmas markets in Europe can be traced back to the Late Middle Ages, where the first markets emerged in German-speaking regions. Initially serving practical purposes, these markets evolved into festive gatherings that celebrated the Advent season and provided communities with a joyful and communal experience. Over the centuries, Christmas markets became intertwined with religious observances, cultural traditions, and the spirit of the holiday season. The 19th century saw a romanticized transformation of the markets, emphasizing handmade crafts and sentimental experiences. In the 20th century, Christmas markets faced challenges but experienced a post-war revival, incorporating new elements and expanding their appeal. Today, Christmas markets are a beloved tradition, blending commerce, culture, and celebration to create magical and enchanting experiences for locals and tourists alike.

Ahh – what to use for a recipe for Christmas day? A standing rib roast? Very traditional. Perhaps with a starter of baked brie with cranberries and walnuts served with some bacon wrapped dates, add some green beans almondine, add a second main of an orange glazed ham and another side of fancy crushed rosemary scalloped potatoes and the required green – pancetta brussels sprouts with caramelized pecans. And dessert? That pocket is always open. Let’s try The Queens Pudding. The very traditional British dessert was popularized during the Victorian era and most every British household ends their Christmas meal with some version of pudding. Queen Elizabeth authorized the release of the Royal recipe prior to her death and it was labor of love to make, but rewardiong. I’m only disappointed that the Queen was unable to sample my creation.

Enjoy!